
While a quantified list would be fairly easy to create for things I love about Japan, I realized that the first several would all essentially be the same thing. As I’ve been reminded many times in my short life I “like to eat”. GQ recently named Tokyo as the best city for food in the world, and it’s hard for me to disagree.
Nostalgia goes a long way when trying to rate quality of food. Nothing will ever be quite as delicious as Great Grandma’s chicken and noodles. Not because the ingredients were more complicated or the flavor was that much more savory, but because it will always be a symbol of something greater.
This is why a few of my close friends are in agreement that when we think back in 10 years what we miss about Japan, we’ll probably all answer “Coco’s”
Coco Ichibanya Curry House is in many ways as important to the survival of U.S. servicemen living in Japan as the air they breathe. It’s hard to find a soul on base that hasn’t tried Coco’s, and I’d say a fair share frequent it at least once a week (two days ago for myself). Aside from the obvious “it tastes good!!!!!”, it is hard to describe why Coco’s is as good as it is. In a large vat, a basic blend of spices, pork, tomato base, and god knows what else is kept at temperature all day, to be mixed with various spice levels (1-10… 3 being spicier than any American fast food) and other ‘stew’ items, and then served over rice. Typically you’ll also add some type of protein (eggs, pork cutlets, squid… you name it) an any other veggies you crave, and serve it up with a side of almost-too-hot Nan bread. Nutrition info isn’t posted for good reason, as I’ve been informed that a typical serving is in excess of 1200 calories. Somehow, this doesn’t stop Sailors or locals though. Open until extremely late, I honestly cannot remember ever seeing the place empty. Various other curry shops are littered about greater Tokyo, but Coco’s is “Ichibanya” (#1) for a reason.
Ramen. The only real tragedy about ramen in Japan, is that you realize you’ve been calling those instant lunches from Nissan the same thing. While the noodles may be the same diameter, and the general squiggle of the noodles are similar in appearance, it’s like calling a Big Mac a Kobe beef steak. There are so many ramen shops not only in Yokosuka, but around Japan, that it’s hard to pin down just one. The fact that it’s not only allowed but considered polite to slurp makes for a great learning curve on how to eat the noodles when they’re far to hot to eat traditionally.
Akiniku/Shabu-Shabu. While the Japanese have quite a myriad of different flavors available, they seem very intent on making a huge variety of ways to eat as well. Those not familiar with chopsticks will be hard pressed to find a good Akiniku/Shabu-Shabu restaurant that makes any kind of sense. Both Akiniku and Shabu Shabu function off of the same basic premise. Here’s some food; cook it yourself. One might find this to be a bit ridiculous outside of a fondue restaurant, but both offer truly great food quality. Akiniku is essentially the Japanese version of Korean BBQ. A large bowl filled with glowing charcoal is placed at the center of the table with a rounded grill on top. You can order any type of meat you can imagine (horse anyone?) or go for the all-you-can-eat option and get all sorts of thin cut strips of deliciousness. Shabu Shabu is similiar, only instead of a grill you are given a large vat of broth or plain water that is quickly brought to a boil, and several cooking chopsticks. The meat is served so thin that by dipping the meat in the water for 3-5 seconds it’s already cooked completely. My initial reaction prior to trying Shabu Shabu was something like “who wants to eat boiled meat? I want to taste the stuff not water it down”. I was very quickly humbled by the fact that since it’s cooked so quickly, you lose next to no flavor from the meat. Also, since many of the broths are flavored (spicy!) you get to taste all sorts of things. Tossing mixed vegetables and other sauces in the broth also makes for whatever flavor you’d like. The downside to both of these culinary experiences is that I’m fairly confident that even though I’m tasting something delicious, I’m still likely doing it wrong. You usually get a good number of sauces that probably aren’t meant for what you dip them in, and somehow we always end up with extra chop sticks or strainers or mystery utensils. Still… did i mention it’s delicious?
Mini Stop/7eleven. While those I’m with usually by habbit call it a “gas station”… your typical corner convenience store rarely if ever sells petrol. They do however, sell truly epic food for next to nothing. While the ‘nutritional value’ of a gas station sandwich or rice ball isn’t quite lean… but for 100 yen, it’s very often a quick fix.
Vending Machines. While the marvels of non-soda vending machines have spread worldwide… no where are they more prevalent than in the land of the rising sun. As my entire family will testify, the selection is truly mind-numbing, and good luck finding a square block ANYWHERE that doesn’t have 3 or 4. If you make a point to get one at almost everyone you stop to (as my brother did) you’ll find yourself with quite a few empty cans in your pockets. Personal favorites include CC Lemon, Coffee Max, and any garden variety cool green tea.
Sushi. Because I saved the best for last. Imagine if you would, a world where there is a sushi shop around every corner. Now also imagine, that the fish is fresh, perfectly just barely cool, with fresh wasabi (not fake horseradish nonsense), and not also imagine a place where each plate (4 rolls or 2 nigiri) is only a buck. Sure, they’re backwards here in some ways… but the motherland of sushi does it correct in the way no uppity bistro in the bay area or some overpriced trendy spot in hyde park could. Of all the things to come to Japan for… Sushi is probably it.
If anyone actually wants specific recommendations for where to go in/around tokyo, let me know.